Ford F-150 Raptor Skid Plate Guide: Underbody Armor for Gen 2, 3 & 3.5 (2017–2026).

The Ford F-150 Raptor is built to leave the ground — and the underbody is what pays for the landings. Ford armors the Raptor better than any other F-150 from the factory, but the stock skids are thin stamped steel, they fight you at oil-change time, and they leave one of the hardest spots to fix — the lower control-arm frame mounts, which are part of the frame itself — hanging in the wind. This guide covers what the factory Raptor skids actually protect, where they fall short, how the major aftermarket kits compare, and how to spec real 1/4″ underbody armor for a Gen 2, Gen 3, or Gen 3.5 Raptor. We manufacture Raptor skid plates in Colorado and install them — so we'll be straight about where ours win and where a competitor might suit you better.

Jump to our Raptor armor, the honest competitor comparison, or the underbody risk map.

Raptor generations — and which armor fits

“Raptor” covers four distinct trucks. Getting your generation right is the whole ballgame for fitment:

There was no 2015–2016 Raptor — Ford skipped those years between Gen 1 and Gen 2. Our skid plates fit the 2017–2026 Gen 2, Gen 3, and Gen 3.5 Raptor, including the Raptor R (the R uses the same underbody as the Gen 3 it's based on). If you have a 2010–2014 Gen 1 SVT Raptor, our kit will not fit — that truck needs a Gen 1-specific design.

What the factory Raptor skids cover — and miss

Credit where it's due: the Raptor leaves the factory with more underbody protection than any other F-150. But “more than a base XL” isn't the same as “enough for what people actually do with a Raptor.” Here's where the stock setup falls short once you're on rock:

• It's thin stamped steel. The factory plates deflect debris but dent and deform under a direct hit on a ledge or rock shelf. 1/4″ plate doesn't.
• The lower control-arm frame mounts are exposed. This is the big one — see the next section. The factory skids don't reach them.
• Oil access is a fight. The factory front skid uses several small bolts that strip and snap; people round them off at the first oil change and end up running with the skid off.
• Transfer case and EVAP can hang low. Depending on configuration, these sit exposed to trail strikes the factory doesn't fully address.

The Raptor's vulnerable underbody points

Start with the one almost everyone misses: the lower control-arm frame mounts. When a Raptor flexes out or drops off a ledge, the front and rear lower control-arm frame mounts are among the lowest, most forward points under the truck. They catch on rock shelves and rut edges — the classic “hanging up” that stops you mid-obstacle — and a hard strike can bend or tear a mount. Because the mount is part of the frame, that's not a bolt-on replacement: it's a frame-side repair, the kind that means a body shop, a frame straightener, and real downtime.

A real F-150 owner's bent lower control-arm mount after repeated trail hits — “the tabs on the front lower control-arm brackets smash into just about everything… I have bent them up pretty bad.” Tellingly, he added: “I have RCI skid plates on the way but they don't even kind of protect the brackets.” This is the exact failure our front skid is built to prevent. Photo & quotes: Crabrangoon_riley via F150Forum.

That's the heart of it: most Raptor skid kits — including the big-name aluminum ones — armor the engine, transmission, and transfer case but leave the control-arm frame mounts open. The few “arm skids” on the market protect the control arms, not the frame mounts where the arm bolts to the truck. Our front skid armors the front and rear control-arm frame mounts as part of the plate — the single biggest reason our Raptor package exists.

But the mounts aren't the only thing hanging down. Here's the full underbody risk map on a Raptor, and which plate covers it:

Our package covers the high-value powertrain run plus the control-arm frame mounts. If you also want the differential, arms, rear shocks, or fuel tank armored, we'll point you to who does those well — and install them for you in one visit.

Juggernaut Raptor underbody armor

Every plate is CNC plasma-cut from 1/4″ 5052-H32 aluminum with 3/16″ A36 steel mounting brackets, powder-coated black, and bolts on with no drilling. Made in Colorado, lifetime warranty. Build the full package or add pieces à la carte.

A few details Raptor owners care about:

• It's the strongest-built kit on the Raptor. 1/4″ plate on 3/16″ A36 steel brackets, flanged for rigidity, with frame mounting that ties into the side frame rails — not just the front and rear. Apart from the factory skids, ours is the only kit that reinforces along the sides — every aftermarket option anchors at the front and rear only — so ours is a stiffer, more impact-resistant system than the thinner, single-plane skids most makers ship.
• Oil changes don't fight you. The transmission skid has a removable oil-drain cover, so you drain the oil with the armor on. The oil filter on these trucks sits deeply recessed — to reach it you drop the engine/front skid, which comes off by removing just 2 bolts and loosening 2 more (stout hardware, not the factory's 5 small strip-prone ones).
• The transmission skid is built to stay put. It's flanged for rigidity and ties into the engine and transmission crossmembers plus the frame rails at two points on each side — a more anchored mount than crossmember-only designs, so it won't oil-can or peel back on a hard hit.
• Keep your factory front skid if you want. Choose the engine-only option on the package (or buy the transmission and transfer-case plates on their own) and add the control-arm-mount front skid later.

See everything in the F-150 Raptor collection.

How it compares — honestly

We're not the only good option, and the right kit depends on what you value. Here's a straight comparison of the real players on the 2017+ Raptor:

One structural note: apart from the factory skids, ours is the only kit above that reinforces into the side frame rails — every aftermarket option here anchors at the front and rear only.

Who should buy what — the short version: for almost every Raptor owner, ours is the one to get. It's the strongest, most complete kit you can bolt on in a single shot — 1/4″ aluminum reinforced into the side frame rails, the only kit that armors the control-arm frame mounts, full powertrain + EVAP coverage, easy oil service, made in the USA with a lifetime warranty, in stock and shipping next business day, and we'll install it for you.

The rest are situational fallbacks:

• RCI — the big name on the same 1/4″ aluminum, and a strong kit. But it leaves the control-arm mounts exposed, anchors front-and-rear only, and can be slow to ship.
• Foutz — a fine à-la-carte route if you enjoy building it up piece by piece, but it's thinner (3/16″) and the kit doesn't reach the frame mounts.
• RPG — worth a look mainly if you specifically want 6061.
• Grimm — the bargain pick, but a weaker one: heavy, thin-gauge (~1/8″) steel, Gen 2 only.

Same money or close — more truck protected with ours.

Competitor materials and fitment above are point-in-time (mid-2026) and change — confirm current specs and pricing at the source before you buy.

Where armor fits in a Raptor build

If you're mapping out a Raptor build, here's the priority order we'd actually run — armor included honestly, not jammed to the top:

1. Recovery + underbody armor. Protect what you have before you add capability. Skid plates and solid recovery points keep a fun day from becoming a tow.
2. Tires (and wheels). The single biggest capability and confidence gain — a 37″ tire on a 17″ wheel transforms what a Raptor will do. Bigger tires also mean bigger hits to the underbody, which loops back to armor.
3. Suspension tuning / bump stops / long-travel. If you actually run the desert at speed, this is where real money earns real performance.
4. Power (EcoBoost gens). A tune, intercooler, charge pipes, and intake are the usual bang-for-buck path on the 3.5L EcoBoost trucks. (The Raptor R's supercharged V8 is a different conversation.)
5. Lighting, bumpers & chase racks. Ditch and bumper lighting, a winch-capable front bumper, and a bed rack — capability and looks once the foundation is set.

We manufacture the armor, not the rest — so we won't pretend to sell you a tune. But armor is the cheapest insurance on the list, and on a Raptor it's the difference between landing a drop and limping home on a punctured pan.

Install

Every plate is bolt-on, no-drill — it uses factory mounting points plus the supplied steel brackets, and ships with hardware and instructions. A full package is a couple hours in the driveway with a floor jack, stands, and hand tools. The transmission skid has a removable oil-drain cover, so you don't drop a plate to drain the oil; the deeply recessed oil filter is reached by dropping the engine/front skid — remove 2 bolts and loosen 2 more. Routine service stays easy.

Rather have it done right the first time? We install every plate above at our Wheat Ridge / Denver shop. Call or text (970) 341-4221 for an install estimate — and if you're adding tires or suspension, do it all in one visit.

Frequently asked questions

Do these fit a 2010–2014 Gen 1 SVT Raptor?
No. Our Raptor skid plates fit the 2017–2026 Gen 2, Gen 3, and Gen 3.5 Raptor, including the Raptor R. The Gen 1 SVT is a different platform and needs a Gen 1-specific kit.

Do they fit the Raptor R?
Yes. The 2023–2026 Raptor R shares the Gen 3/3.5 chassis and underbody, so the same plates fit.

Why aluminum instead of steel for a Raptor?
The Raptor is a truck that jumps and lands — unsprung and underbody weight matter. Our 1/4″ 5052-H32 marine-grade aluminum takes hard trail abuse and won't rust against the frame, at a fraction of the weight of equivalent steel. Steel kits are cheaper but heavy.

Do the big-name skid plates protect the control-arm mounts?
Generally no. Most full-coverage Raptor kits — including the popular aluminum ones — armor the engine, transmission, and transfer case but leave the lower control-arm frame mounts exposed (one F-150 owner put it bluntly about his RCI kit: “they don't even kind of protect the brackets”). Our front skid is built specifically to cover those front and rear frame mounts.

Do I have to remove the plates for an oil change?
Not to drain it — the transmission skid has a removable oil-drain cover, so you can drain the oil with the armor on. The oil filter sits deeply recessed, so you do drop the engine/front skid to reach it — but it's quick: remove 2 bolts and loosen 2 more (stout hardware, not the factory's small strip-prone ones).

Can I keep my factory front skid and just add the rest?
Yes — choose the engine-only option on the package (or buy the transmission and transfer-case plates individually) and keep your factory front skid. You can add our front skid later to get the control-arm mount coverage.

Can you install it?
Yes — we install all of it at our Denver-area shop in Wheat Ridge, CO. Call or text (970) 341-4221.

Armor your Raptor

Shop your plates — build the full package or add the engine/front, transmission, and transfer case skids individually. Bolt-on, no drilling, hardware and instructions included, lifetime warranty.

Or have us install it in Denver — call or text (970) 341-4221 for an estimate. Not sure which pieces you need for your generation? Email sales@juggernautusa.com with your year and we'll spec it. Backed by our 4.9★ review rating.